I’m not under the impression that Mumbai is a traditional center for Mughlai cuisine–but I think I ate it very well here.

Short walks from my hotel were several tasty spots.

Following in the footsteps of Bague and Suresh, we ate at Olympia Coffee House. Stefin and I both enjoyed it here not the least because the servers were so friendly. Though the food was nothing to ignore, either!

Here’s a delectable brain curry/bheja masala (goat, naturally):


It’s just a few rich bites. There’s lots of lovely sauce for the bread. It’s so good this dish has solidified my resolve to get quality bheja when I return to Portland. (Unfortunately, the one source I found for bheja in Portland only offered poor tasting brain.)

Here’s more offal. Tasty chicken livers.


And reshmi/silken chicken kebabs, sprinkled with chaat (snack) masala and super tender:


We also had a mutton fry and chicken biriyani here. Yummy.


Another spot I liked was the Bagdadi.


Here’s their succulent Chicken Do Pyaza–chicken in a gravy of onions (“two onions” with various etiologies.)


And a tasty bowl of goats’ trotters/paya. I sucked on the bones, though I didn’t eat all the rest. Reminds me of the first few times I ate pho and picked over the tendon!! Imagine!


Probably the place I enjoyed most was Bademiyan (Older Brother) on a lane behind the Taj Mahal Hotel.


They have a small tawa and an area for making rumali rotis but the main focus is on kebabs. Notice the inverted kadai/wok on the left–this red hot iron cooks the rumali roti in seconds. And such kebabs they are! Here’s their seekh kebabs behind (fatter than Kashmiri style) and tremendous tangdi kebabs up front.


I also enjoyed their special bedai roti (an egg bread stuffed with keema and onions) and their keema (minced meat).


A look inside the bedai roti:


One of the last trips I took was to Mohammed Ali Road at Merchant Street. Here, after nightfall, the streets come alive with people breaking their daylong Ramazan fast. It’s a pretty cool scene, full of food vendors.

I got a seat at Suleman’s Sweets and watched the parade go by. I had this:


It’s a malpuda, but different from the one we ate at Swati Snacks. This one is thin and crisp, cut into slices with a pizza-cutter tool, no cream. You can see the batter to the cook’s right, he pours it into the hot oil with a ladle.


The last treat I sampled was this bright halva. I don’t know what kind it was, perhaps pomegranate, I simply asked for the red kind. It wasn’t to my personal taste.