My two favorite meals in Amritsar were breakfast, served from street side cafes.  They were delicious out of all proportion to the humble atmosphere.   

My first breakfast was at All India Famous Kulcha.  A kulcha is a stuffed bread, usually leavened with yeast (I think?).  In this case, potato and spice fills the crispy/tender kulcha, and is served with a heavenly dal and a chutney of fresh chopped onions, red chill powder, tamarind–and dry fenugreek leaf, I think.  I wanted to eat it by the spoonful it was so good.   I meant it when I jabbered in crude Hindi, “Apka khana Sheraton zyada achcha hai!”  (Your food is better than Sheratons!) 

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This must be the owner, on the left. 

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And the tandoor.

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My second marvelous breakfast was at Kanha sweets.

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The puris were the size of small melons, and the meal was a balance of spicy, sweet, sour and salty.  The potato dish was sweet and sour; the puris flecked with chilli; and the chickpeas full of fenugreek leaf.  Yum!  

I bought this sweet to go.

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It’s grains of sweet reduced milk, the middle portion just caramelized.  I asked its name, but confusion ensued.  (Anybody know?) The friendly staff at Kanha Sweets.

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