is a gated market in South Delhi that offers crafts from around the nation, but more importantly has several stalls specializing in the cuisines of many of India’s states. 


If you ever come to Delhi, I highly recommend this as a good market alternative to the more aggressive spots like Jan Path or Connaught Circus. 

I had my heart set on littees, a rustic Bihari bread when I spied the Bihar stall.  I wanted to see how my previous go-around making the bread shaped up against the real thing.  Too bad, the stall  was closed.

So I moved on to other stalls, and also sadly forewent Bijoli, the Bengali joint, knowing that I will later have more time to eat Bengali food.  But I have no plans to visit the Northeastern states of India, so when I spied the Nagaland menu I knew I’d found my meal:


I quickly forgot that I was ambiguous about eating pork in India (email me for details) and ordered a plate of smoked pork with akhuni.  Akhuni, the menu explains, is fermented soybeans.


Think campfire smoked bacon, cut in chunks (in the currently hip Portland mode) and bathed in a fiery soup.  My first spicy meal here!  And really delicious…


Mmm, pork fat.  The leaves you see on top turned out to be mong-mong leaves, which are the leaves of the mung dal plant.  Are these common in other areas of India? 

This cook was chopping cabbage at the Assam stall and kindly agreed to let me snap his photograph.